Washer Repair in Las Vegas

Common washer problems we fix

Most washer breakdowns trace back to a short list of parts. These are the symptoms we hear about most, on both top-load and front-load machines, and what usually sits behind them.

Leaking onto the floor

On front-loaders, a torn door boot or a drain filter that wasn't closed tightly is a frequent cause. Top-loaders tend to leak from a loose hose clamp, a cracked tub or a pump seal that has started to weep. Water that shows up only during the drain cycle usually points to the pump or its hoses.

Not draining

Standing water at the end of a cycle usually means the drain pump is blocked or burned out. Socks, coins, hair ties and bra wires are what we usually find in the pump housing. A kinked hose or a clogged standpipe can look exactly the same, so we check the whole drain path.

Won't spin

Most washers refuse to spin with water in the tub, so a spin complaint is often really a drain problem. Beyond that, the usual suspects are a worn belt, a failed motor coupling on some top-loaders, a bad shifter or a motor control fault.

Lid or door won't lock

Modern washers won't fill or spin until the lid lock or door lock reports that it's closed. A broken latch, a failed lock switch or a damaged wire in the harness will stop the cycle and often throw an error code.

Dead controls or won't start

If the display is blank or the buttons do nothing, we start with power at the outlet, then move to the door lock, the user interface and the main control board. Boards do fail, but we confirm it with testing first, because they're one of the pricier parts.

Banging, grinding or roaring in spin

A roar that gets louder as the drum speeds up is the classic sign of worn tub bearings, especially on front-loaders. Banging can come from worn suspension rods or shocks, or simply a lopsided load.

Musty or sour smell

Front-loaders trap moisture around the door gasket and in the drain filter, and extra detergent feeds the odor. Sometimes the smell comes from a slow drain leaving water in the sump.

What happens on the visit

We start by asking what the washer is doing and when it started, then run a test cycle to watch the problem happen. From there we test the parts involved instead of guessing, and we explain what failed in plain terms.

Before any work begins, you get a quote, and you decide whether to go ahead. If a part has to be ordered, we tell you the timeline before you approve. After the repair, we run the washer through fill, agitate, drain and spin, and check underneath for leaks.

Your itemized invoice arrives by email, and you can pay it online by card. Every repair carries a 90-day warranty covering parts and labor, so if the same problem comes back in that window, we come back and make it right.

Brands and types we repair

We work on top-load washers with agitators or impeller plates, front-load washers and compact units. Brands we see often include Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, Kenmore, Electrolux, Speed Queen, Bosch and Miele, and the full brand list is shown elsewhere on this page.

If your washer sits under a dryer in a closet, see our stackable washer and dryer repair page. When the dryer is the one acting up, our dryer repair service covers gas and electric models. Landlords and laundromat owners with coin-op machines can start with commercial washer and dryer repair.